Cover it up or Let it all hang out??

After a grueling 20 hour bus trip from central Bali to central Java (plus boat ride), we finally exited the air conditioning and entered one of the hottest temperatures I've endured. My new nick name on this trip is 'Sweaty Emi' because I sweat like a pig in the humidity. It took me about ten minutes to remember we were in Muslim land when the cyclist transported us in his carriage. I wondered how he could ride a bike in this heat, let alone carry the weight of two human beings and a bag! I noticed people staring at us - I assumed it was because of the color of our skin. But then I remembered... Muslims cover up. Their arms. Their heads. Pretty much all of their skin. It was too late at this point because I couldn't get into my luggage to grab a shirt. I'm pretty sure if I did put a shirt over my tank top I probably would have fainted from the unfamiliar weather. The fatigue, heat and culture difference but me in an intimidated place. I don't even like when people stare at me at home, let alone a foreign country. Just when I was feeling uncomfortable about the whole thing, I looked to my left and saw a man with a huge hole in his pants flaunting his entire package! If that isn't irony, I don't know what is...

Lost in Translation

I met a great couple from Chicago living next door to us in Ubud. They invited me to Sanur (the closest beach town) for their last day in Asia. They gave me tips on Japan and told great stories of their travels over the years. Sanur was OK - nothing to write home about - but it was great to get to the coast of Bali for the first time. The rain began to fall so we found shelter in a small hut where two Balinese masseuse's were sitting to promote their spa in the hotel. One of the ladies flashed me a huge smile calling me 'beautiful' - I felt anything but that at the moment but I could see how genuine she was in her eyes. She asked my name and where I'm from with glowing energy filling up the space under the rain. She walked over to her collegue and they briefly conversed. She came back my way and asked if I would be interested in sitting for their new banana wrap treatment and have my picture taken for their catalogue/website - in return for a free massage. I told her I'd be interested if she arranged for a driver to take me there and back to Ubud another day. I left the beach unsure if she says that to all the girls - gave her the number to where I'm staying and told her to call if she was serious.

I got the call the following morning at 8am. Eka was serious. We made a plan for the following day and back to the beach I went. When I returned to Bali Masari - Villas and Spa, it was clear the people were anticipating my arrival. Everyone knew my name and set me up with a cold drink and a chair at the pool. After 45 minutes, a crew of people approached me. The 'photographer' clearly didn't know what he was doing so I gave him tips with their camera and angles. First shot - yoga poses by the lawn with a Balinese man. Then they took me over to the beach after changing wardrobe. It was pretty hysterical. They were each pointing in different directions as to where to shoot, speaking quickly to one another in Indonesian. I just stood there taking video of the scene I found to be quite humorous. It reminded me of the movie 'Lost in Translation' when Bill Murray acted in the whiskey commercial. The director and crew spoke loudly to one another in Japanese for several minutes followed by, 'the director says... More...INTENSITY!'.... Bill replied, 'That's all he said??'
'OK, Emily please, lie down on the chair.' One woman proceeded to take my top off without asking permission - the other poured sand all over my back and stuck a flower in my hair. The photographer was shooting up my nose and in all the wrong places while I laid there stiff as a board. I asked one of them to shoot with my camera - but wow am I not posting them ;)

After the beach shot they fed me and watched as I scarfed down a weird pizza. After lunch they laid me down on the massage table, wrapped me in bamboo and covered my chest and shoulders with a banana paste - dotted with little pieces of citrus. I told them I felt like a wedding cake - 'put a candle in my mouth and light it'. They laughed often and were really sweet and fun to be around. The rain came down again and they quickly covered my body to protect me from the rain. I literally looked like a mummy and got a funny picture out of it... I looked at the pictures they took and ironically, after thinking I would be perfect for this shoot - I looked awful! Sweaty in the face and seriously the worst angles ever. I offered to help edit, but who knows if that will ever happen.

Next - the massage. OH MY GOD... best massage ever. It started with the nicest shower I took in a long time, followed by a foot massage in warm water. The woman also seemed smitten by me, or perhaps she knew Eka was and just treated me extra special. I went on the table and the magic began. One hour of pure heaven - she hit all the right spots and took her time with every morsel of my body. From my toes to my finger tips to the back of my neck. First with no oil, then oil, then oat exfoliater, then yogurt. Each time hitting each spot again. I was in pure bliss. I heard the running water during the whole first hour, but little did I know she was preparing a warm flower bath. I slowly dunked my blissed-out body into the water and laid down with what felt like four dimples popping out of my face. She brought me the greatest ginger tea I've ever tasted and left me in there for 45 minutes. I probably spent more than half that time taking photos of the bath, then realized I should just enjoy... Oh did I . . .

Muddy Waters

My American friend who's been living in Bali for 2 years told me about a spot outside of Ubud I must photograph. I got all of my gear together - one 35mm film camera - one medium format Mamiya - tripod - plus many rolls of film. On my way out the door I considered changing out of my flip flops and into sneakers, but I sweat like a mad woman and didn't want to deal. Big mistake.

I hopped on Christina's scooter and away we were through some of the most lush greens I've ever seen. Higher and higher up, I wondered what this 'spot' was she spoke so highly of. My stormy clouds were out - they were drawing me closer and I got to choose where to stop and shoot. Alas she dropped me off, giving me 45 minutes to shoot before the sun set. The light was perfect and those 'asian' trees were before me. I asked her how I would walk through the rice paddies and she told me to follow the path. I am here in the rainy season because I love the turbulent weather as much as my camera. We share this joy together and venture out into the unknown bank of exposed film I will one day view. I know the digital gods are looking down at me laughing - but I am laughing right back at them...

So I began to hike down this so-called 'path' - much weight on my back, trying hard to stay balanced and walk through the muddy field. It had rained all day and only stopped for sunset, which in theory was perfect. I contemplated taking my flip flops off and walk bare feet, but there were some sketchy items on the ground I didn't care to investigate. I told myself to walk back the way I came and find an easier path. On my way up the road I saw two young girls washing some things in a small stream of muddy water, giggling and texting on their pink phones. I thought this may be a good place to wash off my flips and feet - thought maybe I could get their portrait too :) They were talking about me to one another - I could only imagine what they were saying but it did not matter. I was on a mission. I leaned over to dip my feet in the water. I thought about the fact that both camera's were strapped across me, but figured they were secure enough not to fall. WRONG!!

My 35mm fell right into the water - the lens cap from the Mamiya went along with it. I couldn't believe it but at the same time I knew it could have happened. Total premonition. Fool, fool, fool is all I could call myself but I needed to stay strong. One of the girls fetched for the camera while I searched at the bottom of the water for the lens cap. They continued to giggle and I tried to be cool. I was boiling inside, wondering when life's lessons will ever end. Never, apparently. I thanked the little girl with one of the only Indonesian words I know and proceeded up the road. I looked at the camera and literally watched it fizz out. I found a spot to sit - not to dwell, but to deal with the problem at hand - do only what I could do at the moment. i took the batteries out, dissected the parts as much as I could. I took 3 deep breaths and decided the show must go on. I was grateful it wasn't my new medium format camera and walked along to a beautiful spot waiting to be photographed.

I've been thinking only positive thoughts since this instance occurred. At least it wasn't my new camera. At least it wasn't the better camera. At least I HAVE two camera's. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise. A professional or two back at home said I was nuts for taking both camera's anyway...that I should just make the switch to medium format and not even deal with puny 35mm. I feel forced into adapting to a new style. Wide angle landscapes have been my signature over the years. I don't have a wide angle lens for the Mamiya because it costs the same as the camera itself. Therefor, the Nikon made it across the world with me. I wanted the safety of shooting with what I know - the Mamiya was purchased only 4 weeks before my trip and on man is a range finder different than an SLR.

So instead of bugging out, I've been embracing the Mamiya like my newborn baby. After reading the manual from front to back (again), I feel excited for this abrupt change. The Nikon is truly messed up and I'm out of here in 36 hours, hitting the road while leaving some items behind. Bye bye Nikon - I guess this was our time to say goodbye. You've given me more than I could have possibly asked for over the years, and for that I am grateful....

Breath, Sweat and Tears

Bali, Indonesia

What a magical place... Been living in Ubud for almost 3 weeks now - the art mecca of Bali. The talent is endless, the scenery priceless. Details I've only heard about - kindness I've only read about. This is probably the safest I've ever felt while traveling, even though the Australian and American government flagged warnings. It's too bad the terrorists touched a place like this - a spiritual and balanced environment drawing tourists here for decades. It has definitely slowed down due to 'fear'. Now that I'm on the other side I realize how ridiculous that was and I'm proud to support such a culture...

I've been practicing Yoga again - if there is ever a time, ever a place - it is here. Found the most surreal setting - perched on top of a man made wooden creation - overlooking rice fields and tropical trees - sounds only of birds and various animals. The humidity plus Vinyasa flow equals BIKRAM! The teachers know just what to say - just how to make my body move. In the midst of acclimating to this climate and culture, I used Yoga to cultivate the feelings/emotions inside of me after flying to the other side of the world. It took me a couple of days to feel OK - got a little sick and felt slightly out of place. I knew yoga would do the trick. Some classes are so intense... I am sweating so many things out of my body - triple releasing with breath, sweat and tears - all at once! I've never known Yoga to be this beautiful, this deep - It's not only releasing toxins, but true emotions I couldn't possibly have found back at home. I vow to continue this practice when arriving back to my home land of 'Obama' (that's how they refer to the US here :) Lot's of support!!

I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing here yet - but it's guaranteed to catch up with me with the time is right...